Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 9:40
Ik zou het niet weten 
Try & Error perhaps
Try & Error perhaps
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 9:53
Weet je wat, ik ga het uitvogelen (mocht niemand reageren) en als het me is gelukt de boel aan de praat te krijgen doneer ik een montagehandleiding aan het forum, idee? 
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 10:03
Ik doe vast 'n duit in het zakje 
WARNING: If you have a car equipped with PSM then the bracket must be modified by cutting away the part that would rub on the hydraulic lines. It is also necessary to remove portions of the plastic that serves to cover and protect these lines. Though most of the areas to be cut are readily apparent please use due caution when doing so.
Make yourself familiar with where things go.
Begin the installation process by clearing out the front trunk. It is also necessary to remove the spare tire. Next, remove the battery cover and both side covers. Make a note of how these slip into the cowling area as it will make reinstalling everything a lot easier.
Take a moment to look around the battery area and familiarize yourself with what will be done. The battery hold-down is on the left side of the battery. On the wall between the trunk and battery, to the left of the battery, is the lug that you will be using for the ground wire (already attached in this photo). Below the ground lug is a rubber plug that the CD Changer wires will be passed through.
To the right of the battery, on the back firewall, is yet another rubber plug. The CD Changer wires, just installed, can be seen passing through the plug in the right hand photo.
You are now ready to begin the installation.
Step 1. Slide the battery over.
Remove the battery hold-down. After removing the hold-down set it aside and slide the battery over to the left. Doing this will make it much easier to run the wires from the head unit to the CD Changer.
Step 2. Move to the interior of the car.
After moving the battery, the most straightforward progression is to start with the interior of the car by removing both the driver's side carpeted panel and the head unit.
Step 3. Running the wires.
First, route the radio end of the supplied cable up to the now empty radio slot in the front console. The dual width connector can be plugged in without removing the existing connector. Note that the new connector can only be plugged in one way.
After plugging the connector into the radio DO NOT reinstall the radio. We will do that later. This helps to make sure that there is enough slack to remove the head unit at a later time.
ep 4. Continue routing the wires.
Route the other end of the cable out the rubber plug. To do this take an X-Acto knife or similar tool and cut a small X from the trunk side. Be careful as this plug may push all of the way through the firewall. If it does it's not a big problem so don't get too concerned if it does happen. After cutting the X take a screwdriver or similar object and poke it through the plug and into the footwell area. Look under the dash and locate where the tool sticks through. Pass the 3 free connectors through this location. Be sure to run BEHIND the gas cable. On my car there was a black Tie Wrap with enough clearance to act as a guide. Once all the free ends are passed through go to the trunk and pull all of the remaining cable through. Again, use caution or you may pull the rubber plug free. For now, leave all of the excess wire laying in the trunk.
Step 5. Install the ground wire to the firewall.
First, remove the nut on the grounding lug identified earlier using the 13mm socket. Then, locate the brown grounding wire supplied with the CD Changer. This wire has a spade connector on each end. The smaller of the two spade connectors gets attached to the changer. The other gets grounded to the vehicle. The problem here is that the hole in the spade connector is too small.
The simplest way to deal with this is to take wire cutters and make a single cut in the center at a point opposite the wire. Next take a pair of needle nose pliers and spread the opening apart just a little bit. After removing the nut on the grounding post the connector may be pushed on. If it is still too tight it may be 'persuaded' by using the 13mm socket to press it on (the socket will slide over the post while pressing on the spade connector). The nut may then be replaced. Rotate the connector so that the wire is aimed in a downward direction prior to tightening the nut.
Step 6. Loosen the back wall carpet.
It is now necessary to partially remove the carpeting running along the firewall where the CD Changer will mount. Take a large flat-blade screwdriver or similar tool and work it down behind the carpet next to the larger plugs on the rear wall. Pry these plugs out. There is no need to worry if these larger filler plugs break as they will be discarded.
Step 7. Continue running the cable.
With the carpet pulled away from the wall cut an X in the rubber plug identified earlier. Pass the ground wire as well as about 10 inches of the CD Changer cable through this opening.
There is a pre-cut slot located below the leftmost carpet plug. Pass the ground wire and about 6 inches of cable through this opening. Route the remaining cable in front of the battery. Wind up all of the excess and use a Tie Wrap or similar item to neatly bundle the excess wire in the open area to the left of the battery.
Step 8. Secure the battery.
Slide the battery back over to the right and re-install and tighten the hold down. Replace the carpet under the weather strip. Also, replace the carpet plug that was set aside earlier.
Step 9. Install bracket attachments.
Locate the 2 small U-Clamps. Although it may not be readily apparent there is a proper orientation to these. One side has a set of notches while the other side is smooth. The notched side is what gets placed in the front set of small slots at the edge of the CD Shelf.
The front edge where the bracket goes has two slots while the back edge has 3 slots. Place the clips in the front two slots. The open end should be facing up and towards the front of the car.
If the carpet is too tight to do this easily then take the X-Acto knife and cut a small lengthwise slice at each edge at the front of the opening.
Step 10. Prepare to attach the changer to the bracket.
We are almost ready to attach the CD Changer to the bracket. If the label on the bracket will be visible you may remove it if desired. Acetone (nail polish remover) should help in this task. Remove the green shipping tape from the changer as it is easier to do this now instead of after attaching the changer. Also, rotate both arrowed indicators located on the sides of the changer to point toward to front (soon to be the top) of the changer. Finally, remove the 2 shipping screws located on the side that fits against the bracket.
Step 11. Attach changer to the bracket.
Locate the 6 small hex bolts. Four of these bolts go through the bottom of the bracket and into the changer. The remaining bolts go through the left side of the bracket and replace the shipping screws that were just removed. Place the ground wire over one of these last two bolts prior to installing and tightening it.
Step 12. Attach the changer to the vehicle.
Locate 2 of the captive press nuts and place them in the openings in the carpet and into the wall. Plug in the changer to the audio and control wires paying attention to the color match and orientation.
Slide the wires underneath the bracket while at the same time placing the front edge of the bracket into the U-Clamps. Press the bracket down firmly in the front to make sure it is fully seated in the U-Clamps.
Take 2 of the hex bolts and finish installing the bracket by bolting it in place using the captive press nuts. You may have to press hard to get the holes to line up.
Step 13. Almost Done!
Re-install the head unit in the front console. Also, re-install the carpeted side panel. On the trunk side make sure you haven't forgotten to tighten everything back up that needs to be. Re-install the the battery cover.
Ready to test.
Place one or more of your favorite CD's in the cartridge, printed side down. Open the CD Changer door and insert the cartridge. Turn on the radio and use the 'S' button to select the CD Changer (identified as CDC.) At this point the changer should be working. If not, go back and make sure everything is plugged in and has power. If it's all working just install the spare tire and enjoy your new CD Changer!
WARNING: If you have a car equipped with PSM then the bracket must be modified by cutting away the part that would rub on the hydraulic lines. It is also necessary to remove portions of the plastic that serves to cover and protect these lines. Though most of the areas to be cut are readily apparent please use due caution when doing so.
Make yourself familiar with where things go.
Begin the installation process by clearing out the front trunk. It is also necessary to remove the spare tire. Next, remove the battery cover and both side covers. Make a note of how these slip into the cowling area as it will make reinstalling everything a lot easier.
Take a moment to look around the battery area and familiarize yourself with what will be done. The battery hold-down is on the left side of the battery. On the wall between the trunk and battery, to the left of the battery, is the lug that you will be using for the ground wire (already attached in this photo). Below the ground lug is a rubber plug that the CD Changer wires will be passed through.
To the right of the battery, on the back firewall, is yet another rubber plug. The CD Changer wires, just installed, can be seen passing through the plug in the right hand photo.
You are now ready to begin the installation.
Step 1. Slide the battery over.
Remove the battery hold-down. After removing the hold-down set it aside and slide the battery over to the left. Doing this will make it much easier to run the wires from the head unit to the CD Changer.
Step 2. Move to the interior of the car.
After moving the battery, the most straightforward progression is to start with the interior of the car by removing both the driver's side carpeted panel and the head unit.
Step 3. Running the wires.
First, route the radio end of the supplied cable up to the now empty radio slot in the front console. The dual width connector can be plugged in without removing the existing connector. Note that the new connector can only be plugged in one way.
After plugging the connector into the radio DO NOT reinstall the radio. We will do that later. This helps to make sure that there is enough slack to remove the head unit at a later time.
ep 4. Continue routing the wires.
Route the other end of the cable out the rubber plug. To do this take an X-Acto knife or similar tool and cut a small X from the trunk side. Be careful as this plug may push all of the way through the firewall. If it does it's not a big problem so don't get too concerned if it does happen. After cutting the X take a screwdriver or similar object and poke it through the plug and into the footwell area. Look under the dash and locate where the tool sticks through. Pass the 3 free connectors through this location. Be sure to run BEHIND the gas cable. On my car there was a black Tie Wrap with enough clearance to act as a guide. Once all the free ends are passed through go to the trunk and pull all of the remaining cable through. Again, use caution or you may pull the rubber plug free. For now, leave all of the excess wire laying in the trunk.
Step 5. Install the ground wire to the firewall.
First, remove the nut on the grounding lug identified earlier using the 13mm socket. Then, locate the brown grounding wire supplied with the CD Changer. This wire has a spade connector on each end. The smaller of the two spade connectors gets attached to the changer. The other gets grounded to the vehicle. The problem here is that the hole in the spade connector is too small.
The simplest way to deal with this is to take wire cutters and make a single cut in the center at a point opposite the wire. Next take a pair of needle nose pliers and spread the opening apart just a little bit. After removing the nut on the grounding post the connector may be pushed on. If it is still too tight it may be 'persuaded' by using the 13mm socket to press it on (the socket will slide over the post while pressing on the spade connector). The nut may then be replaced. Rotate the connector so that the wire is aimed in a downward direction prior to tightening the nut.
Step 6. Loosen the back wall carpet.
It is now necessary to partially remove the carpeting running along the firewall where the CD Changer will mount. Take a large flat-blade screwdriver or similar tool and work it down behind the carpet next to the larger plugs on the rear wall. Pry these plugs out. There is no need to worry if these larger filler plugs break as they will be discarded.
Step 7. Continue running the cable.
With the carpet pulled away from the wall cut an X in the rubber plug identified earlier. Pass the ground wire as well as about 10 inches of the CD Changer cable through this opening.
There is a pre-cut slot located below the leftmost carpet plug. Pass the ground wire and about 6 inches of cable through this opening. Route the remaining cable in front of the battery. Wind up all of the excess and use a Tie Wrap or similar item to neatly bundle the excess wire in the open area to the left of the battery.
Step 8. Secure the battery.
Slide the battery back over to the right and re-install and tighten the hold down. Replace the carpet under the weather strip. Also, replace the carpet plug that was set aside earlier.
Step 9. Install bracket attachments.
Locate the 2 small U-Clamps. Although it may not be readily apparent there is a proper orientation to these. One side has a set of notches while the other side is smooth. The notched side is what gets placed in the front set of small slots at the edge of the CD Shelf.
The front edge where the bracket goes has two slots while the back edge has 3 slots. Place the clips in the front two slots. The open end should be facing up and towards the front of the car.
If the carpet is too tight to do this easily then take the X-Acto knife and cut a small lengthwise slice at each edge at the front of the opening.
Step 10. Prepare to attach the changer to the bracket.
We are almost ready to attach the CD Changer to the bracket. If the label on the bracket will be visible you may remove it if desired. Acetone (nail polish remover) should help in this task. Remove the green shipping tape from the changer as it is easier to do this now instead of after attaching the changer. Also, rotate both arrowed indicators located on the sides of the changer to point toward to front (soon to be the top) of the changer. Finally, remove the 2 shipping screws located on the side that fits against the bracket.
Step 11. Attach changer to the bracket.
Locate the 6 small hex bolts. Four of these bolts go through the bottom of the bracket and into the changer. The remaining bolts go through the left side of the bracket and replace the shipping screws that were just removed. Place the ground wire over one of these last two bolts prior to installing and tightening it.
Step 12. Attach the changer to the vehicle.
Locate 2 of the captive press nuts and place them in the openings in the carpet and into the wall. Plug in the changer to the audio and control wires paying attention to the color match and orientation.
Slide the wires underneath the bracket while at the same time placing the front edge of the bracket into the U-Clamps. Press the bracket down firmly in the front to make sure it is fully seated in the U-Clamps.
Take 2 of the hex bolts and finish installing the bracket by bolting it in place using the captive press nuts. You may have to press hard to get the holes to line up.
Step 13. Almost Done!
Re-install the head unit in the front console. Also, re-install the carpeted side panel. On the trunk side make sure you haven't forgotten to tighten everything back up that needs to be. Re-install the the battery cover.
Ready to test.
Place one or more of your favorite CD's in the cartridge, printed side down. Open the CD Changer door and insert the cartridge. Turn on the radio and use the 'S' button to select the CD Changer (identified as CDC.) At this point the changer should be working. If not, go back and make sure everything is plugged in and has power. If it's all working just install the spare tire and enjoy your new CD Changer!
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 10:40
Pieter, gefeliciteerd. Nette auto zo.
En Olaf je was me voor. Had dezelfde handleiding gisteren al gevonden maar geen fut meer om hem te posten gister avond
En Olaf je was me voor. Had dezelfde handleiding gisteren al gevonden maar geen fut meer om hem te posten gister avond
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 11:07
thanks Maurice. Inmiddels staat ie op de Turbo look velgjes, wel zo fraai
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 11:08
Goed bezig Pieter !
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 14:35
Pieter_996 schreef:Inmiddels staat ie op de Turbo look velgjes, wel zo fraai
piccie
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 19:05
.... moeten we Pieter nou echt blijven vragen om Pica's!? Hij zal zelf toch wel snappen dat ie deze hier HEEL SNEL moet plaatsen 
Overigens een mooie bak
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 19:31
op de vorige pagina zijn er al een stuk of 3 geplaats Dimitri
Ik wil m trouwens wel op zn nieuwe sloffen zien, die Pieter, kom met de foto's als de sodemieten(ik weet t)
Ik wil m trouwens wel op zn nieuwe sloffen zien, die Pieter, kom met de foto's als de sodemieten(ik weet t)
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
02 feb 2010 21:40
In het weekeinde vrienden. Het is enorm takkenweer hier en ik ga hem niet voor 2 foto's uit de schuur halen. En rijden kan niet, want ik heb nog geen nieuw kenteken.
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 9:58
Heeft er trouwens iemand een fatsoenlijke oplossing voor de kentekenplaat aan de voorzijde? Er zit nu zo'n houder van de garage (zwarte achterplaat) geschroefd op het fabrieksstuk kunstof maar dat is eigenlijk geen gezicht. Heeft een van jullie een oplossing die wat minder verloren oogt? Oh ja, bij voorkeur een legale oplossing (dus geen sticker kentekens)
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 10:02
Dan maar niet je voorkeur en stickers halen bij Jeroen914!
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 10:02
sticker schijnt "legaal"te zijn ,zolang je het origineel maar bij je hebt. Weet ds waarschijnlijk beter
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 10:56
gefeliciteerd met je mooie cabrio, wat een grijns inderdaad! 
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 11:07
Richard schreef:sticker schijnt "legaal"te zijn ,zolang je het origineel maar bij je hebt. Weet ds waarschijnlijk beter
Vergis je niet. Sticker is illegaal. Je hebt kans dat ze je laten gaan als je ter plaatse de originele plaat erop kan schroeven, maar dat is willekeur. Bij de APK schijnen ze wat coulanter te zijn heb ik van - ik meen - Olaf wel eens gelezen.
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 11:21
Laatst bij wegmisbruikers was een een jeep voor de dakar, en die had het ook, en die werd mooi aan de kant gezet. hij had orginele platen wel bij zich en mocht doorrijder(volgens mij omdat de agenten de dakar wel mooi vonden)
Zoals Horn zegt, het wordt soms gedoogd, maar het is niet legaal
Zoals Horn zegt, het wordt soms gedoogd, maar het is niet legaal
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 11:46
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 13:09
Slijmbal! Een duim voor een politieoptreden... Moet nie gekker worden met jou!
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 14:00
Richard en de Hermandad...
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 14:05
Wimpie77 schreef:Slijmbal! Een duim voor een politieoptreden... Moet nie gekker worden met jou!
ppff ik getuig mijn respect aan de opmerkingen van degene die ts behoeden voor een bekeuring door mijn verkeerde impulsieve actie van het mogelijk legaal voeren van een kenteken sticker ,doch door het gebruik van de term 'het schijnt" mij ingedekt hebbende.
kortom politie en richard = geen vrienden
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 16:19
Bedankt voor je politiek correcte uitleg...!
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
04 feb 2010 18:18
.... ook ik zou voor lekker een sticker nemen! zeker voor die paar km's die ik met de P rij per jaar
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
06 feb 2010 19:44
De foto's!
Re: Pieter z'n Porsche uit het buitenland..
06 feb 2010 20:48
Stukken mooier ik ben wel Fan van Turbo velgen... ziet er goed uit!
ik ben wel Fan van Turbo velgen... ziet er goed uit!